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The other day, Rob Patronite and Robin Reisfeld (New York Magazine) were reviewing chef Phillip's asparagus recipe, and they drank the Shelton Brothers Spezial Rauchbier. A light, food friendly ale, with hints of smoke. In fact, primitive beers had a smokiness because early brewers dried their malt over an open fire. It's not at all what you would expect. True to the German beer purity law, there is a subtle smokiness from the natural brewing process, not a commercial additive of hickory flavor.
I love the Shelton Brothers Beers. Check out the beer list at Jimmy's No. 43 for both draught and bottle selections. Look for the friendly "*SB".